War on Plus Four: The Manifesto

Wonder Woman

NO ONE SHOULD SPEND EACH DAY HATING THEIR UNDERWEAR.

Wires that poke. Straps that dig. Gaping cups and underarm fat. The constant, nagging need to readjust. The inability to move five paces without needing to readjust again. And don’t even get me started on what can happen when it’s hot…

All women deserve freedom from the discomfort caused by ill fitting bras.  So Busts 4 Justice and the War on Plus Four are on a mission to demolish all of the bad information, calculators and guides that continue to keep women in these sizes. And we promise to keep on fighting – for as long as it takes.

Interested in joining? Have an idea/request for a campaign?  Swing by on Facebook, Twitter, or drop me an e-mail on busts4justice@gmail.com. Or why not initiate your own skirmish yourself? There’s a whole lot of work to be done.

FAQs

Q: Isn’t the War on Plus Four just replacing one arbitrary rule with another?

A: No. The War on Plus Four isn’t a case of +0 vs +1.  We want +4 calculators to be abolished and replaced with clear, visual guides to help women recognise their perfect fit. Where numbers are insisted on, we suggest a neutral +0 starting point, with high emphasis on using that as a base from which to find your perfect fit – be it +0, +2, +4 or even -1.

Q: Why do you bother? 

A: Because I know how – and I don’t use this phrase lightly – life-changing a perfect fit can be. I spent 10 self-conscious, uncomfortable and sedentary years loathing my body for burdening me with uncomfortable 34E behemoths that weighed me down, got in my way, and made me look huge. Simply by switching to a 30G, I dropped a dress size, kissed goodbye to my quadra-boob and PDAs (public displays of adjustment), and took up sport.  My boobs don’t even look particularly big any more.

Q: What does a perfect fit look like?

A: A firm band that stays horizontal to the floor around the back and lies flat to the chest at the front. An underwire that fully encases the breast tissue. Cups that sit smooth without spillage, puckering or gaping. Shoulder straps that don’t dig in. And most importantly, you should be able to forget it’s there from the moment you put it on in the morning to the moment you take it off at night.

Check out Bravissimo’s guide to see if you’re getting your perfect fit.

Q: Who’s next on the hitlist?

A: If your fit advice makes you part of the problem, not the solution – then consider this fair warning. It’s only a matter of time…

Q: What else can we do?

A: Brands are a big piece of the puzzle, but we can make a difference everyday by passing on our knowledge of good fitting lingerie. It may be a while before the impact the War on Plus Four is having on brands filters down to consumers. But by sharing good fit with mothers, aunts, sisters, friends and daughters, we can make a real difference to comfort, support, body image and confidence… one woman at a time.

What do you think? Will you be joining us?

Posted in Campaigns, War on Plus Four | Tagged , , , , , , | 23 Comments

Why Playtex MUST act now

Awful Fitting Advice from PlaytexTracking the Playtex Facebook page last night, I couldn’t help but be moved. Not just by the tremendous support for the War on Plus Four on the page, but by the overwhelming amount of Playtex fans responding to their (kinda gift-wrapped for us) daily straw poll of “What’s most annoying about wearing a bra?”.

“Uncomfortable”, “straps digging in”, “straps that fall down”, “wires poking”, “wires coming out”, “having to adjust” and “everything” were common hates between women. Worse were things like “they hurt”, “by 3pm I’m nearly in tears” and “I can’t wait to get mine off at the end of the day”.

I, and a lot of my partners in crime, found it terribly upsetting to read. We all could relate to everything they were posting – because that used to be us. Almost every single complaint was a common symptom of a wearing a bra too big in the back and too small in the cup. Symptoms that would be caused if you followed a gimmicky fitting guide that added inches to your underbust measurement. Symptoms that can be remedied very easily with smaller numbers and larger letters.

And yet ‘fit experts’ Playtex see this, and instead of addressing the fitting issues or answering our challenge to the bra calculator, write insulting platitudes suggesting we get professionally fitted and insisting the calculator is a guide. They offer nothing to the women miserable in their underwear.

Oh Playtex. You can say “it’s just a starting point” until you’re blue in the face, but the simple fact is your advice at the moment is failing your customers. Read how many of them are telling you they hate wearing bras! Is there no compassion for women who feel uncomfortable all day long because they don’t have the tools to find a perfect fit, and the tools they have send them in a totally wrong direction? How can you read that and then ignore our complaints? Do you – the fit experts – actually even care at all?

Finding the correctly fitting bra (which often means taking the true underbust measurement as it is before calculating cup size) is a life changing experience. It’s the difference between having to adjust it all day and then tearing it off as you get home, to not giving it a moment’s thought between getting dressed and bedtime. It’s the difference between feeling every staircase jolt through your chest, and moving with total support and freedom wherever your day may take you. It’s the difference between resenting your boobs for holding you back, and celebrating your curves for what they are. It’s the difference between the awkward, self-conscious E-cup girl I used to be, and the determined, relentless G/I-cup woman I am today.

(If you’re new to this blog (hello!) and are curious about good fit, have a look at What Most People Don’t Know About Bra Sizes for a quick crash course in understanding cup sizes, fit, and what’s wrong with the system.)

I digress. As shown clearly by their (lack of) actions and their insulting platitudes, Playtex seem to be missing the point a bit here, so let’s spell out exactly what we want. Hint: it’s not generic customer service responses or cut-and-paste Facebook replies to our criticisms.

1: IMMEDIATE removal of the bra calculator.

2: IMMEDIATE removal of the bra ‘makeovers’ (as above) that show women being refitted in to bras that do not fit (as can be demonstrated when the center gore does not lie flat, when the breasts are pushed together, when the band rides up, when the cups spill over with movement, when the breasts come out of the bottom of the cup when arms are raised, when shoulder straps dig in, etc etc.)

3: A review in to how better they could help women actually find their perfect size – I always call out Bravissimo guidelines here – featuring a focus group/study of independent bra experts (like Butterfly Collection).

4: A new campaign dedicated to educating American women on recognising genuinely good fit (not the fit as they currently promote it…), and a commitment to raising the bar for fit standards in the US.

And the rest of us? Keep posting, keep writing. They may not be listening right now, but they will hear us.

e-mail consumer.care@hanesbrands.com

Or find their Facebook here

Posted in Busts 4 Justice, Campaigns, News, War on Plus Four | Tagged , , , , , , | 12 Comments

Playtex US respond to criticism… barely

Playtex bad fitting advice

It’s past my bedtime here, but I had to swing by to share Playtex’s response to the War on Plus Four currently raging against them. They write:

“Thank you for contacting Playtex It Fits.  We are always delighted when Consumers take time out of their schedule to share their comments and welcome the opportunity to address inquiries regarding our products.

We appreciate your feedback and certainly keep your comments in mind. We are always working to fine tune our fit calculator. We have changed the calculator in response to women’s changing bodies. Currently we suggest that women with a band measurement of 35″ or above add 3″ instead of the old 5″ recommendation which will give you a band size of 38 instead of the 40 band size under the old system. However, this measurement is only a starting point and depending on your body type, some women of a band measurement of 35 will fit better in band size and other in 40.”

Three words: NOT. GOOD. ENOUGH.

1: These comments do not help women in the mind. They need actions.

2: A bra company describing itself as ‘expert’ should know that the plus-inch method serves nobody other than the lingerie brands pedalling it to ensure women stay in the same old narrow range of bra sizes.

3: A bra company describing itself as ‘expert’ should be in some way concerned that a tool they have created to help people find a perfect fit can suggest sizes that cause extreme discomfort, poor support, and awful shape. (And that’s before you mention the ones who just fell straight out of the bottom of their wear test…)

3: The bizarre concession to +3 instead of +5 inches when you’re over 35″ makes no sense. A +3 will fit better than a +5 on any back, because backs need to be as firm as possible when dealing with C+ busts.

4: Bra companies need to own their ‘guides’ and their ‘starting points’. As I’ve said before, giving someone a tool like this is as helpful as handing a lost person in Berlin a Rough Guide to Mexico. Starting at the true underbust measurement is also ‘just a guide’. But it’s a guide that doesn’t immediately land you six inches in the wrong direction…

I will reply again to them tomorrow. In the meantime, you fabulous War on Plus Fourers… keep pushing. Women deserve better from lingerie brands than Playtex US are currently offering. Make sure they hear you.

Contact Playtex here:

Post to their Facebook here:

 

 

Posted in Campaigns, News, War on Plus Four | Tagged , , | 33 Comments

Playtex US: The War on Plus Four goes stateside

Playtex get it wrong

When Busts 4 Justice challenged Playtex on their hopelessly misleading bra calculator app (above) last year, dozens of bloggers and Playtex customers joined the fight to get them to rethink the mis-advice they were giving to women. And Playtex listened – removing the app and inviting a focus group of Busts 4 Justice friends to meet them in London and discuss bra fitting advice and what they could be doing better. Impressive stuff.

The problem is, that outside of the US Playtex are operated by licensees. So while the marketing team representing Playtex UK reached out to women and tried to make a difference, Playtex fans in the US didn’t feel quite so valued by the brand. Not only did complants fall on deaf ears, the Playtex US bra calculator tool gives even poorer results than its now obsolete British sister. Behold:

Playtex Bra Calculator = wrong

The bra calculator works alongside guidance videos that – though does recommend a yearly professional fitting – sends women completely off in the wrong direction from her perfect fit. To make it worse, through slick, chirpy ‘bra makeover’ videos you can watch  long suffering misfitted women in to… another misfitting size – reinforcing the bad lessons being dished out to unknowing Playtex customers and prolonging the discomfort and culture of fit miseducation of women everywhere.

According to Playtex I am a 34C, so I popped in to a local lingerie store to find a bra in “my” size (let it not be said that I don’t give this calculators a fair chance to prove me wrong…). Let me describe what happens to my body in a 34C bra – in case you can’t imagine already. My breasts are harshly forced back in to my chest – causing a boob pancake that starts near the bottom of my ribs and heads to my chin, and gives a four(+) boob effect under clothes. In such a small bra, my nipples are barely covered, and the wires dig in sharply in to the delicate breast tissue. The front gore is nowhere near my chest – in fact in a bra this small I’m spilling out both over and under the cup – and the band pulls up my back. This causes further pain, and the unsupported cups pull down my straps and cut in to my shoulders. Every time I move, I have to to readjust my breasts because they are simply not contained by the bra. And this is without even leaving the changing room. I am uncomfortable, I look ridiculous, and if this was the daily reality of my lingerie experience I would absolutely hate my body.

Is this the experience Playtex want customers to have in their lingerie?

Of course I am not a 34C. I am a US 30I/28J (a UK 30G/28GG). Simply by not adding four/five/six (seriously Playtex? Six!?)  to that initial underbust measurement, I find a size that gives me perfect support, has improved my body confidence, dropped me a dress size, and empowered and enabled me to become much more active in my daily life.

C is a small cup size. In fact, if you understand bra relativity you’ll understand that D is too (please read this if I’m confusing/surprising you here). Support for fuller busts cannot be found by increasing back sizes. It is found by close – even tight – support around the underbust that is capable of taking 80% of the breast weight – and letters of the alphabet beyond DDD.

So, my gorgeous US readers – here is the rallying cry. We (but especially you – you are their customers and they should want to deserve your custom) shout. We e-mail. We recruit our readers to shout and e-mail too. The method Playtex US are using to advise women on their bra size is wildly misleading – and we prove this by describing what happens when we squish our chests in to their suggested sizes. The bravest souls could even take a picture showing the effect to illustrate the point – there’s nothing like a visual aid to hammer home the point. Playtex UK listened to customers when they said their welfare and comfort was let down by such an arbitrary and misleading tool. Do Playtex US value their customers enough to do the same?

D is not big. 34B is not ubiquitous. Adding inches to an underbust measurement completely fails women beyond a C cup. And every woman deserves better from their lingerie than companies pedalling these +inch size calculators are offering.

The War on Plus Four is back on. Who’s in?

e-mail Playtex directly here:

Post to their Facebook

 

Posted in News, War on Plus Four | Tagged , , , | 48 Comments

Summer Dreams: a first look at the best of Spring swimwear

Spring 12 Swimwear

It’s January 18th, there’s frost on the ground, and I’m wearing Uniqlo thermals under every inch of clothing… it’s not the most obvious time to be scouring pictures of nearly-nude women for outfit inspiration. But I have a deadline. In a month, I’m going to be (drenched in factor 50 suncream, complaining about freckles and heatstroke) on a beautiful beach in Thailand – so it’s time to dive in and warm up with a look at the hottest swimwear picks for Spring 2012…

Last year was undeniably outstanding for swimwear, with (what felt like) an infinite stream of styles, prints and colours bombarding us from every direction. And 2012 already looks like it’s going to be similarly bountiful – although I am disappointed not to see a great expansion in ranges beyond a G/GG cup as yet. H cups and beyond, I can only recommend getting in early if you see a style you like. Competition for those sorely under-served sizes is always fierce.

Hold on to your hats. It’s going to be quite a season…

First things first: Lucille is back – and she’s blue. Panache’s gorgeous nautical inspired range and star of 2011 returns with an even more nautical twist, available up to a G cup from 20th February – sadly (so sadly) too late to accompany me on my Asian adventure. A total classic though – well worth walking the plank for. Ahoy!

Lucille Panache Bikini

Curvy Kate’s long awaiting first swimwear collection launches this year, diving straight in all the way up to a K cup from the off. Hurrah! Cute, colourful with a classically Curvy Kate twist (hello ruffles!) – the three styles are a great alternative for those sizes pushed in to the black and bland territory by their cup size. Look forward to trying these out for size this year.

Curvy Kate Bikini

Also coming to the rescue of the much neglected H+ cups is Bravissimo, with this fruity number available now and all the way up to the K cup. The catch? It’s called the Copacabana. Good luck trying to get that song out of your head now…

Copacabana Bikini Bravissimo

This super cute Gingham Girl bikini – especially when paired with these cheeky, 50s inspired high waisted knickers – by Miss Mandalay. They’re not in store yet but they are due to be sold in Bravissimo this year. WANT. The only trouble is, I can’t seem to pin down sizing information – will they be reserved for our small cupped sisters, or will they boldly follow last year’s beautiful Harbour bikini in to the echelons of the HHs? Anyone?

Miss Mandalay Gingham Girl Bikini

Still with me? Hurrah! I have a lot of love for Figleaves‘ own Midnight Grace range, and this year they’ve come back with even more cute prints. Sadly we’re back in to G-only territory cup-wise, but I love the pin-up style of these halter bikinis and swimsuits. Super cute. More sizes please Figleaves!

Midnight Grace Bikinis by Figleaves

And last but absolutely not least, Freya‘s new lines come in a huge range of prints – festively all named after dances to get you in to the summer spirit. I have to say my favourite is the (gingham, again) Lindy Hop (below left, to a GG), but it isn’t released until April. Boo. Still, until then there’s the lovely Swing Lagoon (middle), and the super-bright Calypso, which sees Freya swim paddling in bigger cups, but only for 32-38 backs. Also look out for the Charleston, which seems to be the endlessly popular Pier but with bows. Cute!

Freya Swimwear

I need a lie down. What’s your favourite?

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