Regular readers may remember the battle Busts 4 Justice had with Gossard’s fairly questionable bra calculator and fitting advice a while back.
To their credit, they reached out and have been working on the situation. I was very disappointed then, to read this this afternoon:
Hi Becky (sic),
This week, as promised, we organised for two women to come into the office to get fitted using your +0 idea, in order to compare to the traditional +4 method.
The first of our models measured 32 underband and 40 overbust. This meant that Gossard measured her at a 36F, however our model expressed that she would merely use this as a starting point, as she in fact feels most comfortable in a 34FF. Using the proposed method by Bras4Justice (sic), this would mean our model’s starting point would be a size 32G, or in relative terms 30GG.
With this new calculation we asked our model to try a 32FF. Unfortunately she was unable to get the bra to fit, as she felt the band size was too tight and uncomfortable, therefore opting for the 34 band instead. This would mean she would measure a 34F, one band size smaller than Gossard’s original calculations, or one cup size smaller than the size our model actually wears.
The second model was unfortunately absent, so we were unable to use this method on another larger busted model.
It is Gossard’s view that although, for the minority of women, the +4 method may not work, for the majority, it is in fact an excellent starting point. If we were to use the +0 method we believe many women would experience the same frustration as our model experienced, that the band size they are given does not in fact feel comfortable as it is too small, and they would have to increase their band size. However, we understand that, from the Busts4Justice point of view, the traditional method may leave women feeling as though the band size they have received is too large, so there is obviously a compromise to be had.
We believe that this compromise should be in ensuring that we increase the information on our website, which will increase the options women have when choosing their bra size. Our current measuring calculator states that the size you receive will in fact be an estimate and is a starting point, not a definitive answer, especially for women above a DD. We also state that in order to get the size most suitable for your measurements, it is best to get measured by a professional. In addition to this information, what we aim to achieve is an informative guide for women which allows women to either use our sizing application, or our sizing chart for a starting bra size.
Gossard is also dedicated in informing women on how to correctly measure themselves, as we have found that many women in the UK have been misinformed that measuring without a bra is in fact the best method. There is the possibility that this fact is the reason as to why many women, especially those with larger busts, are wearing the wrong size. If you are measuring your breasts whilst they are not supported correctly you will in fact get an inaccurate measurement of the overband, however if you had a bra which supported you correctly in the first instance, you would not be trying to find your true bra size! On our website we will also be introducing a separate guide explaining how to use the theory of relativity, and how to know whether to go up or down a size using the most common complaints from women, e.g. ‘ spilling from the cup.’
Kind Regards,
Jade
Courtaulds Brands Ltd (Gossard & Berlei)
Can you spot the fundamental flaw in their argument here? They weren’t using their bra calculator algorithm in the test! My response:
Hi Jade,
Thanks for replying. I have to say, I’m a little disappointed. I have a couple of points though:
“It is Gossard’s view that although, for the minority of women, the +4 method may not work, for the majority, it is in fact an excellent starting point.”
The reverse is actually true – there has been a recent study proving this – you can read about it here: . I also have the full download if you would like to read it in more detail. In any case…
“The first of our models measured 32 underband and 40 overbust. This meant that Gossard measured her at a 36F, however our model expressed that she would merely use this as a starting point, as she in fact feels most comfortable in a 34FF. Using the proposed method by Bras4Justice (sic), this would mean our model’s starting point would be a size 32G, or in relative terms 30GG.”
This is not true to the bra calculator we’re talking about, which would actually have put her in a 36D. The bra calculator worked out the cup size from the difference between the underbust +4/5″ measurement.
When you consider this, a starting point of 32G (which is actually equivalent to a 34FF) is a much better starting point than a 34D – which is not even an equivalent cup volume.
With this new calculation we asked our model to try a 32FF. Unfortunately she was unable to get the bra to fit, as she felt the band size was too tight and uncomfortable, therefore opting for the 34 band instead. This would mean she would measure a 34F, one band size smaller than Gossard’s original calculations, or one cup size smaller than the size our model actually wears.
Why didn’t you try her in a 32G, as the calculation suggested? I personally believe that Gossard bras do come up tight in the band, but it will feel even tighter if the cup is a size too small.
I thought this was supposed to be a fair and controlled experiment, but it has been incredibly variable. Personally I would advise you to do it again – and properly – before proceeding further with your revisions.
Finally, a bra calculator/starting point means nothing if it not supported by clear and accurate visual guides and product shown on models wearing correctly fitting bras. Historically, Gossard have been bad at this – rendering any ‘starting point’ useless. Is there any plan to address this?
I genuinely do appreciate you investigating this, but it’s important Gossard do not miss this opportunity to address their fitting issues for their customers.
Best wishes, Beckie
Arg. I’ll keep you posted. Love from Bras4Justice (wtf?)
Busts 4 Justice 